Shoving a half gallon jar of fresh, organic, illegal raw milk into my bicycle pannier alongside the sweet corn, arugula and Honeycrisp apples I picked up at the farmers’ market, and pedaling it all home, is among my favorite acts—symbolic of a simultaneous undermining of the corporate food and fossil fuel transportation systems in one action.

“Symbolic” may be the key word, though. Most of my food, admittedly, comes from Whole Foods, or a collection of area restaurants when our busy schedules don’t allow for cooking. All of these actions combined (even adding my questionable contention that “most” of my grocery purchases are organic) do little to shift the direction of food production and distribution in the United States, according to Wenonah Hauter, author of Foodopoly—a powerful and disturbing presentation of the effects of conglomeratization in US food production.

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